Bose Pro32 Portable Line Array with Sub1 or Sub2 Subwoofer


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According to Bose, this has a little more power than the original Bose L1 Model II. Depending on your subwoofer configuration, this will be close to the F1 system.  Not as loud compared to the F1, but plenty of power, tons of bass (with Sub2 config), wider sound dispersion and unmatched “throw”.

Bose L1 Pro32 Portable Line Array System Features:

  • All-in-one mixer, PA system, and stage monitoring system
  • Bose line array technology delivers sound evenly across the stage and throughout the audience
  • 32 x 2-inch neodymium drivers and Sub1 bass module with high-excursion Racetrack driver
  • 2 ToneMatch channels with fixed preset for a vocal microphone and an acoustic guitar
  • Integrated subwoofer with high-excursion Racetrack driver
  • 2 setup positions: collapsed for smaller spaces or extended for larger ones
  • Ideal for musical performances, mobile DJs, classrooms, business presentations, and other events
  • Free Bose L1 Pro Mix App gives wireless control of mixer (iOS or Android devices)


Bose Sub1 Bass Module Features:

  • 480W Class D amplifier delivers low-end down to 40Hz
  • Slim 7-inch x 13-inch Racetrack driver matches the performance of larger traditional speakers
  • Includes SubMatch cable for fast connection to the Bose L1 Pro32 system
  • M20 threaded insert for mounting to an optional Bose adjustable speaker pole




Sub1 Specs and info

Sub1 Specs

LF Driver Size: 7″ x 13″
Total Power: 480W
Inputs: 2 x XLR-1/4″ combo
Outputs: 2 x XLR, SubMatch (thru)
Height: 53.1cm
Width: 24.9cm
Depth: 53.1cm
Weight: 16.1 kg


Sub2 Specs and info

Sub2 Specs

LF Driver Size:10″ x 18″
Total Power:1000W Class D
Inputs:2 x XLR-1/4″ combo
Outputs:2 x XLR, SubMatch (thru)
Mounting Options:Floor, M20
Height: 69cm
Width: 30.5cm
Depth: 55.1cm
Weight: 23.5kg


  • Can I run a pair of L1 speakers in stereo?

    Yes, stereo is definitely an option.

    With the older L1 Model 1s and Model II, running in stereo was a lot more challenging than traditional powered speakers.  The only simple mixer option made for the Bose L1 at the time was the T1 Tonematch mixer.  It was mono, but to run that in stereo was a real mission requiring you to adjust settings, send a signal to the AUX out independently of the MASTER out.

    With the introduction of the T4s and T8s digital mixers which have dual MASTER out (or – left and right, stereo), suddenly stereo became a lot easier.

    But do you really NEED to run in stereo?

    The downsides to running “stereo” as a DJ or band

    1. Unless they’re in the “sweet spot”, your audience won’t get stereo. If they’re not dead centre of the dancefloor, they’ll get predominantly more of either the left or right channel.  They probably won’t notice.
    2. You can get bass cancellation if the subwoofers are too close together.
    3. You will get cancellation (particularly less bass) if the L1 speakers are too close together if you end up running “dual mono”, ie exactly the same signal on both speakers. Bose recommends spacing the two speakers 6 metres apart.
    4. Even in stereo, you’d want to try to put the subwoofers together to avoid cancellation.


    I’ve been using the Bose L1 systems since 2007.  Be it a Compact, a Model 1, L1 Model II, or the 1s, and now the Pro8, Pro16 and Pro 32.  I’ve only needed a pair on less half a dozen occasions.  Unless it’s a massive room or huge crowd, the long throw and wide dispersion of of the L1 system means two “sticks” really is often just overcomplicating matters with no real advantage, certainly none that the client/audience will ever notice.





    Nick Logan – Corporate and wedding DJ 

    Running in stereo is probably a lot easier now with the new L1 Pro series, you can use them without the Tonematch mixer.

  • How do I connect my T1 Tonematch to an L1 Pro?

    You’ll need two cables to The original T1 Tonematch mixer will need two cables – an audio cable, and an ethernet cable (or Tonematch power supply).

    The L1 Pro8, Pro16, or Pro32 can power the T1 Tonematch mixer via the ethernet cable. However, unlike the L1 Model II or L1s, there is no audio transferred via this ethernet connection.

    1. Power up your T1 via the Tonematch power supply, or an ethernet cable connected to the L1 Pro Tonematch port
    2. Run a 6.3mm TRS (stereo) cable from the T1 master out, into Ch3 on the L1 Pro.


    Read the full article at the Bose Portable PA Encyclopedia FAQ and Wiki

  • Bose L1 Pro range comparisons

    The Bose L1 Pro range initially consists of three to four systems, depending on the subwoofer configuration.

    Bose have a detailed comparison chart available here.

    Here are the key differences at a glance:


    Volume: 112 dB (cont.) 118 dB (peak)
    Power: 60w main system, 240w subwoofer
    Low frequency: 45Hz
    Weight: 18kg


    Volume: 118 dB (cont.) 124 dB (peak)
    Power: 250w main system, 1000w subwoofer
    Low frequency: 42Hz
    Weight: 24.8kg

    Pro32 with Sub1

    Volume: 117 dB (cont.) 123 dB (peak)
    Power: 480w main system, 480w subwoofer
    Low frequency: 40Hz
    Weight: 13kg (base and array) + 16.1kg (Sub1)

    Pro32 with Sub2

    Volume: 122 dB (cont.) 128 dB (peak)
    Power: 480w main system, 480w subwoofer
    Low frequency: 37Hz
    Weight: 13kg (base and array) + 23.4kg (Sub2)

  • Can I connect the F1 sub to the L1 Pro?


    The F1 subwoofer is a stand-alone active subwoofer with multiple inputs and outputs.

    Connect your source to the F1 subwoofer line-in, then run the line-out from the subwoofer to your L1 Pro8 (overkill, but what fun!), Pro16, or Pro32 which each have multiple input options.

    Alternatively, the Pro8, Pro16 and Pro32 each have line outputs, so you can connect that directly to the F1 subwoofer input.